Old Basra and the Shatt Al-Arab River

December 4- Old Basra and the Shatt Al-Arab River

Our tour today started as a walk thru Old Basra. It used to be known as the Venice of Iraq for its canals in addition to its streets. This area was built during the Ottoman rein. Villas on the canals and streets featured shenashil, balconies, over the street (Iraqi version of mashrabiya). Most of the villas were in decay with very few showing signs of restoration. The canals were almost dry and filled with garbage and some dirty water.

We stopped in one partially restored villa that had belonged to a Greek merchant. We could only visit the courtyard as the villa was still under restoration. The entrance to the villa was on the street, however the courtyard was open to the alley behind it. We were told there are about 150 shenashils but funding can only restore a small portion of them. It must have been a beautiful area in its day.

Walking through the area we passed small shrines to martyrs of the Iraqi war and of Islam.

We did visit a fully restored villa that houses an exhibit of the many types of Iraqi boats; how they were made and used. One boat used in Basra is believed to be an inspiration to the canal boats in Venice due to its shape and how it was poled through Basra canals. There was even a replica of the first river rafts - goatskin inflated floats with a platform. It was really a fascinating exhibit. 

Our walk included a stop for tea at the Al Hassoun Museum and Café. The museum/cafe contained an eclectic collection of, well, almost anything old.

 I didn’t get any photos of it but found this video on IG: https://www.instagram.com/reels/DEr0VRvCXDS/

Our last stop in Old Basra was an Armenian Church, Church of the Virgin Mary, built in 1736. Though there used to be a large Armenian community, many left Iraq after the 2003 invasion.

We headed into Basra and the Shatt al Arab river. This waterway was fromed by the merging of the Tigris and Eurphrates rivers to the north. It has been an important commerce route from the era of the Silk Road to today. Here, docked on its banks, we toured one of Saddam Hussein’s yachts – the Basrah Breeze. The yacht had been used, partially as marine university and partially as a tourist sight to show off his opulence. The university is no longer there as the ship is in poor repair. We toured Saddam’s office, bedroom, guest rooms, and conference/reception room. Time has not been gentle on the interiors either; fabrics on drapes and furnishings are fraying, rugs are filthy and worn.

We left the yacht and took a boat ride on the river. We passed several boats grounded and rusting in the river – too expensive to remove. There were speed boats out enjoying the sunny afternoon and a few fishing boats returning to port. We also passed another of Saddam’s palaces and what remains of Saddam’s newest and most luxurious yacht, the Al – Mansour. The yacht was delivered just days before the invasion and never used. After being bombed and overturned, it was stripped of anything of value and now remains on its side slowly rusting.

We had a late lunch at a local Iraqi restaurant and again enjoyed kebabs and other southern Iraqi specialties. It appears we are all going to gain weight on this trip from the abundance of great food!

We returned to the hotel at 4pm with time to ourselves before dinner – what eat again?! Those of us that wanted dinner met Sylvie and Dylan at 7pm in the lobby and a short walk to a local restaurant. Fred and I joined the group but, still full from lunch, we only had soup. I didn’t photo the food, but the after dinner tea service was worth a video!